Admittedly, the Metropolitan Museum of Art hasn’t staged a solo exhibition of a living designer since then. Even talents as rich as Miuccia Prada and Karl Lagerfeld have been yoked to figures from further-flung history, such as Elsa Schiaparelli or Coco Chanel. And that avoids accusations of pandering to the advertising dollar, and of transforming esteemed institutions into designer window displays.
The flip-side, however, is that brands are now doing it for themselves. Rather than necessarily partnering with grand galleries and museums, fashion’s biggest houses are simply renting spaces, hiring curators and staging their own shows, devoted solely to themselves. The latest is Hermès’ Wanderland exhibition, installed at the Saatchi Gallery until 2 May.
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